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Against the backdrop of its striking, craggy mountain vista, meandering roads and unpredictable weather, the Isle of Skye has always drawn nature enthusiasts. Over the last decade, however, the biggest island in the Inner Hebrides has been pulling in visitors for other reasons – its thriving food and drink scene. Pioneering this movement are young Sgitheanach (Skye natives) with a global outlook but a dedication to homegrown, environmentally conscious ingredients. It’s also the result of an active community keen to create rewarding, permanent jobs that encourage young people on the island.

A Passion for Local Produce

Calum Montgomery is Skye born and bred, and he’s passionate about highlighting the island’s produce on his menus. “If someone is coming to Skye I want them to value the landscape, but also the superiority of our ingredients,” he says. “Shellfish like mussels, lobster, scallops and crab from our waters are second to none.” Montgomery is mindful of the past: “It holds great significance for me to use the same products as my forebears. My grandfather was a fisherman who caught lobster and we’re enjoying shellfish from the same stretch of water, with the same respect for ingredients.”

The chef's Island Flavors menu displays the mileage his products has been transported. Patrons can enjoy succulent scallops harvested manually in local waters (no distance), and trapped in creels lobster from a nearby town (12 miles) with vegetables, wild herbs and blossoms from the garden from the kitchen garden and coastline (locally sourced). That connection to ingredients and suppliers is essential. “Last week I took a young chef out with a shellfish forager so he could understand what they do. We prepared scallops freshly harvested and enjoyed them freshly shucked with a squeeze of lemon. ‘That’s the best scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. That’s what we want to bring to the restaurant.”

Gastronomic Pioneers

Driving south, in the presence of the mighty Cuillin mountains, an additional gastronomic advocate for Skye, Clare Coghill, runs a bustling café. Recently Coghill showcased Scottish cuisine at a renowned international gastronomic gathering, presenting seafood sandwiches with spirit-infused butter, and innovative local dishes. Her venture began her café in a different city. Coming back to Skye during the pandemic, a short-term residencies revealed there was a audience here too.

During a meal featuring a signature creation and exquisite blood orange-cured trout, Coghill shares: “I’m really proud that I opened in an urban setting, but I found it challenging to achieve what I can do here. Getting quality produce was a huge mission, but here the scallops come right from the ocean to my door. My creel fisherman only speaks to me in Gaelic.” Her affection for Skye’s offerings, people and environment is apparent across her vibrant, imaginative dishes, all imbued with regional tastes, with a touch of Gaelic. “The link to local traditions and tongue is deeply meaningful,” she says. Patrons can use educational materials on the tables to discover a few words while they enjoy their meal.

A lot of us had jobs off the island. We witnessed the produce arrive miles from where it was landed, and it’s nowhere near the same quality

Honoring Heritage with Creativity

Long-running dining establishments are continuing to evolve. A charming inn managed by a local family in her traditional property has for many years been a culinary hotspot. The family matriarch authors popular books on Scottish cookery.

The culinary team continues to innovate, with a vibrant young team led by an experienced head chef. When they’re not in the kitchen the chefs nurture seasonings and flavorings in the hotel greenhouse, and gather for wild greens in the grounds and ocean-foraged botanicals like sea aster and beach plants from the water's edge of a local sea inlet. In autumn they follow woodland routes to find fungi in the woods.

Guests can enjoy Skye scallops, leafy vegetables and nuts in a savory dashi; premium white fish with seasonal spears, and restaurant-cured shellfish. The hotel’s activity leader takes guests out for experiences including ingredient hunting and fishing. “Guests are very interested for immersive activities from our guests,” says the manager. “Guests are eager to come and really get to know the island and the terrain.”

Economic Impact

The distilling sector is also playing a role in keep local youth on Skye, in jobs that extend past the busy season. An operations manager at a island whisky producer explains: “Aquaculture was a significant local employer in the past, but now the majority of positions are mechanized. Property costs have gone up so much it’s harder for new generations to stay. The spirits sector has become a really important employer.”

“Distillers wanted, no experience necessary” was the announcement that a recently graduated local woman spotted in her local paper, landing her a job at the distillery. “I just took a punt,” she says, “It was surprising I’d get a production job, but it was a personal goal.” She had an curiosity about whisky, but no relevant qualifications. “Having the opportunity to receive hands-on instruction and take online courses was incredible.” Currently she is a senior distiller, helping to train trainees, and has developed her own whisky using a distinctive ingredient, which is maturing in barrels at the time of writing. In other distilleries, that’s an recognition usually granted to retiring distillers. The visitor centre and coffee shop employ numerous locals from around the nearby region. “We integrate with the community because we welcomed the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital